CASTING ON: using a needle 2-3 sizes larger, cast on 64 (40, 44, 44, 48, 56, 72, 80) stitches. 1/2 of the stitches go on each circular needle. Join, taking care not to twist.
CUFF: Work a k1, p1 rib for 16 (10, 11, 11 12, 14, 18, 20) rounds.
LEG: This is where you pick up your pattern. If you don't have a specific pattern in mind, I suggest either a (k2, p2) rib or a (k3, p1) rib. Either looks good, is easy, and fits beautifully. In any case, for shorter (ankle) socks, work 48 (30, 33, 33, 36, 42, 54, 60) rounds; for longer (calf-length) socks, work 64 (40, 44, 44, 48, 56, 72, 80) rounds OR a number of rounds to give you an even pattern repeat.
HEEL: These instructions are for a gusset heel. *Sl 1, k 1*; repeat across 1 needles worth of stitches (32 [20, 22, 22, 24, 28, 36, 40]) stitches. Let the other needle "sleep" while making the heel. Turn the work around and slip the first stitch, then purl the rest across. Repeat these two rows (right side: *sl 1, k1*; wrong side, sl 1, p remaining stitches) until you have 32 (20, 22, 22, 24, 28, 36, 40) rows altogether; this will be 16 (10, 11, 11, 12, 14, 18, 20) slipped stitches up the side of the heel flap. Be sure to end on a wrong side row.
Now you're going to turn the heel. If you've never done this before, it will be confusing. Just trust the pattern and it will work out.
ROW 1: Sl 1, k 18 (11, 12, 12, 13, 15, 20, 22), k2tog,
k1, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p7 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7), p2tog, p1,
turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, k to within one stitch of gap, k2 tog
across gap, k1, turn. (look at your needles. See the
gap in between the stitches you've worked in this
short row in the middle and the stitches that still
need to be worked ? That's the gap I'm talking about.)
Row 4: Sl 1, p to within one stitch of gap, p2tog
across gap, p1, turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been
worked. You may not be able to work the final k1 after
the decrease on the last row. That's fine. 18 (12, 14,
14, 14, 16, 22, 24) stitches remain. If you ended on a
right side row, proceed with the gusset; if you've
ended on a wrong side row, K across plain.
Still using the "live" needle, pick up 16 (10, 11, 11, 12, 14, 18, 20) stitches along the side of the heel flap. You can either do this by sticking your "sleeping" needle through the big loop made by the slip stitch on the side of the heel and then knitting that loop, or you can go to the purl stitch just inside the big loop, pick that one up with the "sleeping" needle, and then knit it.
Still using the "live" needle, knit across half the stitches on the sleeping needle. Switch needles and knit the other half of the stitches. Pick up 16 (10, 11, 11, 12, 14, 18, 20) stitches along the OTHER side of the heel flap. Still using the same needle, knit 9 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 11, 12) stitches off of the second needle. You should now have 41 (26, 29, 29, 31, 36, 47, 52) stitches on each needle. The bottom of the heel is now the beginning of the round.
GUSSET: This is the part where the sock decreases as
your foot gets narrower over the instep.
Round 1: K13(17, 8, 8, 9, 11, 15, 17), PM, K2tog, K to
end of needle. On needle 2, K16(10, 11, 11, 12, 14,
18, 20), PM, K1, SSK (or k2tog tbl), and knit to end.
Round 2: Knit plain (instep stitches in pattern, if
you're doing that)
Round 3: K to marker, K2tog, K to marker, K1, SSK (or
K2tog tbl), K to end.
Round 4: Repeat round 2.
Repeat rounds 3 and 4 until there are 32 (20, 22, 22,
24, 28, 36, 40) stitches on each needle. Leave
markers - you'll need them for the toe.
FOOT: Continue to knit the foot with no further decreases until the entire foot, including the gusset rows, measures 64 (40, 44, 44, 48, 56, 72, 80) rows. (Sizing note: This is for a women's medium shoe size. If your foot is not a woman's medium foot, measure your foot from the back of the heel to the tip of your big toe, and subtract 2". Knit your sock foot to that length.)
TOE: This is a wedge toe. Discontinue the pattern
stitch, if you were carrying it down the instep. From
here on out, knit plain.
Round 1: K to 3 stitches before the first marker,
K2tog, K2, SSK (or K2tog tbl), K to 3 stitches before
second marker, K2 tog, K2, SSK (or K2tog tbl), K to
end.
Round 2: knit plain.
Repeat these two rounds until there are 18 (12, 12,
12, 14, 16, 20, 22) stitches on each needle, then
repeat round 1 only until there are 4 stitches left on
each needle. Cut the yarn, leaving about an eight-inch
tail. Thread a blunt needle with the yarn, and run it
around through all 8 remaining stitches twice. Pull
tight, tie off, and weave in the ends.
Knit another sock to match, and you're done!
Copyright 2006 Kathryn Tewson and Jo Gerrard. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.